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The Dude November 6th, 2019 05:36 PM

I think the power supply in my monitor is sending too much voltage as the last 3 or 4 months it keeps making a snapping sound and resetting... I put a meter up to the screen one time (Touching the screen) and when it snapped,it showed the voltage........

How would I definetly find out if this is the problem???

I would like to save this monitor as you know they are getting hard to come by now!!

Thanx for any help :)

Ensign Tzap November 6th, 2019 11:31 PM


Originally Posted by The Dude (Post 1306273)
I think the power supply in my monitor is sending too much voltage as the last 3 or 4 months it keeps making a snapping sound and resetting... I put a meter up to the screen one time (Touching the screen) and when it snapped,it showed the voltage........

How would I definetly find out if this is the problem???

I would like to save this monitor as you know they are getting hard to come by now!!

Thanx for any help :)

Sounds like the High Voltage Flyback is starting to fail.:sad:

But since you say it isn't doing it constantly.
Pull the monitor a part and check how much dust, dirt, and other contaminates have accumulated in it.
Try Vacuuming it out first.

If your in a hi dust particle area, and it is humid.
There is a good chance that the High Voltage Anode is at times shorting to the Gnd Chassis of the Monitor.

Second, Carefully look at the FlyBack Transformer.

Look for burn holes or cracks on the outside of it, or possibly even on the PCB it is mounted down too.

If you see this, then your Flyback is failing.
And unless you get lucky, and find a parts supplier with your exact flyback transformer, or replace one.
Your going too be out of luck.:sad:

Signed: Ensign Tzap

Buzz November 7th, 2019 12:29 AM

Curious.. why bother saving it? They are anchors nowadays. You seriously often can't give them away. And a better, lighter, thinner, more energy efficient monitors are relatively cheap.

zipulrich November 7th, 2019 01:11 AM

With about 27,000 volts inside, be really careful if you decide to open the case. And they still hold a charge after you turn them off. I remember having to replace a flyback transformer getting my A+ cert years ago, and having fun with a screwdriver under the anode cap trying to discharge it before I killed myself.

Best practice, Donny - relative pitch is when you throw it in the dumpster and it doesn't touch the sides. Perfect pitch is when it lands on a banjo :)

The Dude November 7th, 2019 01:47 AM

Thank you guys for your response and caring :)

BUZZ: I like CRTs more than newer thinner stuff,to me CRTs are the nicest ever..

ENSIGN TZAP: I was thinking this recently........ You could be very right....

ZIPULRICH: Yes i know it takes along time for stuff in a monitor board to discharge....

Thank you everyone!!

Digerati November 7th, 2019 05:21 PM


With about 27,000 volts inside, be really careful if you decide to open the case. And they still hold a charge after you turn them off.

I used to repair CRT TVs and monitors and I can attest to the fact that in some cases, that charge on the anode can hold for several days!!!! It likely won't kill you - if you have a healthy heart. But it can cause severe burns and definitely get your attention. If you have a heart condition, or have a pacemaker, I would recommend you just accept its fate and leave it alone.

If you do decide to open it, of course, unplug it from the wall first (though removing the case should remove the power cord with it). Note it is NOT likely the power supply is putting out too much voltage. It is more likely an existing component has weakened over time (as they normally do) and is beginning to fail and can no longer properly handle the current.

This failing component is developing a short. Ohm's Law dictates when resistance goes down, current goes up. That's not good. The arcing you hear is likely to just get worse. Each arc (spark) will cause more and more carbon build up. This, in effect, causes the gap the voltage is jumping across to get shorter and shorter as this carbon "bridge" gets bigger and bigger. The shorter the gap, the easier it is for the voltage to jump (arc) across it until eventually there is a total short.

If lucky, that short will just cause the monitor to stop working completely. If not so lucky, that short (0 or near 0 resistance) will cause excessive current. When current goes up, so does heat. You don't need a fire.

You can certainly blast out the interior with compressed air to remove the heat-trapping dust. That alone may help. Then you can do a visual inspection to see if you can see where any arcing has occurred (black, carbon spots), or if there are any burned components. But beyond that, it just is not worth it.

Please do NOT throw it in the dumpster. Take it to a proper electronics recycling center. This is for several reasons. For one, cathode ray "tubes" are under extreme vacuum pressures. If the tube breaks, it WILL implode. Once all those shards of super sharp glass crash into the middle, they then bounce out in an explosion of flying glass.

A recycling center knows how to properly pop the cathode end of the tube to release the vacuum safely, without an implosion followed by an explosion.

Second, all CRTs have a bit of mercury in them. Don't let any more mercury get into our landfills. An electronics recycling center will know how to properly recover and safely dispose of the mercury. There are other hazardous waste products in a computer monitor that can be safely recovered too.

Note in many jurisdictions, including the US, Canada, UK and most of Europe and the EU, it is illegal to toss CRT monitors in the trash - just because of the mercury.

Having said that, because of the EPA and OSHA regulations and rules for mercury recovery and disposition, it does cost more to safely recover the mercury than the recycling center can get from selling the other recyclable materials (aluminum, steel, copper, and other precious metals, etc. the monitor contains). My local electronics recycling center charges $10 each to dispose of old CRT monitors and TVs. I am NOT a tree-hugger but I think $10 is worth it to ensure no kid gets hurt from flying glass and to prevent any more mercury from getting into our water tables.

It is likely that disposal fee will only go up as time rolls on. So stuffing the monitor in a closet and forgetting about it does not solve the problem, or save you money. I recommend you call around. If you don't have an electronics recycling center in your area that takes CRT monitors, check with Best Buy or even your local trash pickup company, or your local government should have a point of contact too.

The Dude November 7th, 2019 06:16 PM

Ya I put my other RELISYS monitor I got from ebay a few weeks ago on today,I think the other RELISYS finally got so bad it couldnt fire up. I was using it earlier and it just started snapping,etc... Video wouldnt come back on....

It had other problems before this started....... With this relisys I have now I Dont like the border per say it has around the edges (It doesnt goto the edge like the other one did) Its better than a snapping one though!!

Could they fix the other one??

This one is an earlier model,it goes into energy saving mode if no signal is detected from the computer like my first relisys did.. (The one I just took off was a newer model and did not switch to energy saving mode,it just showed colour bars on the screen and when I first tested this one when I got it IT DID ALSO but just now after we hooked it up and I turned it on,it went to a blinking light (Energy saving mode) very confusing to me........ (Why it didnt do that when I tested it on the floor of my room a few weeks ago)

Digerati November 7th, 2019 06:43 PM


Could they fix the other one??
Depends on what exactly is wrong with it. Common capacitors, resistors and such are easy to replace. But if a circuit board or other component are bad, finding replacement parts may be difficult at best.

It is important to note when it come to repairing electronics, it is common for the actual troubleshooting and identifying the failed component that is the most technically difficult and time consuming aspect of the repair process. Replacing a bad cap, for example, takes a couple minutes and most of that time is just waiting for the soldering iron to get up to temp. But finding which cap to replace could take an hour or longer - especially if no circuit diagrams or service manuals are available.

So it is easy to see where you could run into 1 or 2 hours worth of labor charges, on top of the cost of the replacement parts. Depending on your local area $60 to $75 per hour just for labor are typical.

I know a lot of folks really like their CRT monitors. As "analog" devices, many appreciate them like they do vinyl records. But they are huge, heavy, power hungry, heat producing, 4:3 dinosaurs. Get a nice 24" LCD monitor and you will learn to like it too.

They really are affordable.

Check your graphics card to see what interface it supports. It should support at least one digital output (DVI, HDMI, or DisplayPort). Then make sure the monitor does too. If it only supports analog (D-Sub or VGA), many LCD monitors still do too. But you will not be taking advantage of the digital offerings.

zipulrich November 7th, 2019 07:29 PM

(My dumpster comment was only meant to disparage the banjo community. Don't take it literally)

Digerati November 7th, 2019 07:55 PM

I don't know what banjo community means, but its not me who matters if the comment was taken literally or not. A lot of people think it is okay to just toss such things in the trash. These days it's not. Florescent lights also have a drop of mercury in them and they too should be properly recycled. As should lithium batteries. Fortunately, Best Buy stores have recycle drop boxes for batteries. I just looked at and Goodwill in my town accepts CRT monitors - apparently for free. :) So does Best Buy.

And both Lowe's and The Home Depot take CFLs (compact florescent lights) - if not already broken.

The Dude November 7th, 2019 08:14 PM

I know ZIP,I didnt :)

On the bad monitor on the service menu the first thing it says is "DDC NG" -- I assume NG means No good....

On this monitor it says "DDC OK"

I just hope I didnt do anything to cause these problems like if the data cable wasnt hooked up right..... Is that what DDC means??

The colours are a little wierd on this one........... (The 'RGB CUT' settings are different in the service menu)

Digerati November 7th, 2019 08:56 PM

I've seen it as Direct Digital Connection and Direct Digital Control. Either way, it generally means the graphics solution and the monitor completed their "handshaking" and are now communicating.

Outside of a loose cable, it pretty near impossible to hook up the cable wrong without forcing it. If a pin is not broken, it is probably fine.

If you used the same cable with monitors, the cable is good and you got a bad monitor.

The Dude November 8th, 2019 04:49 AM

Yea maybe... The data cable is hardwired into the monitor (On the monitor side of course)

I dunno........ So if it says DDC NG it means its not working as it should I assume.....

This relisys has some different settings.... On the service menu for G1 its set to 99 -- On the other one G1 was set to 0..

But the wierd colouring I dont like.... Its basically the same but it looks wierd......

I dunno.......

Digerati November 8th, 2019 05:13 PM

Degaussing should be automatic but you might check your manual to see how to manually do it, if possible.

The Dude November 9th, 2019 04:34 PM

Yup if I goto the user menu I can manually deguass..... Everytime the monitor is turned on I believe its deguassed..... Im not sure though.....

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